Ok, I’ll admit it, “My name
is Mark Blauvelt and I am addicted to wade fishing….”
My story goes something like
this: For over thirty years, I have been wading creeks, ditches, rivers and
waterways all across the US and Canada and have learned a few things (while
wearing out a dozen pair of wading boots in the process). Now in the midst of
all those miles I've picked up a great many useful tips. Do you want to be
a bit more more "goat-like" when negotiating a slippery, rocky stream bottom?
Do you need to be able to protect yourself,
and your equipment, from embarrassing and potentially dangerous situations?
Finally, do you want to get closer to your quarry? I'll
share a few key points with you, and even the most experienced waders might
learn a few things from this battered old-timer. Hey, we do this stuff so
you don't have to!!!
Start with the tools of the
trade: boots, gravel guards, waders, wading belts, wading staff, hats, polarized
glasses and vest. Sure, this seems like a long list, but all items contribute
to helping you wade safely and effectively every time out; therefore, I will
offer a few tips on each subject:
Boots are the single most
important piece of every fisherman’s toolbox. Considerations include what type
of stream bottom you will be wading in because this will depend on what type of
boots to wear. Sand, snow, and mud bottom require lug soles; while cobble and
gravel are best suited to felt bottoms; where as the flat shale rock and large
bowling ball sized glacier stones call for felts with carbide tips. Over the
years, I have found that the felts along with carbide tips allow for longer wear
while providing the best grip for all surfaces with the only negative being
that, when entering the stream, you will need to be very careful so you don’t
slide down the muddy bank and end up on your keester. Best advice: look for tree roots to
ladder you down and up from the stream, and always enter near a riffle in
shallow water.
Gravel Guards are best
seen as a tool that increases the comfort level and longevity of
your wading experience. They keep gravel out of the small layer of water
between your boots and your waders (stocking foot models only). Imagine a rock
in your sock: That’s what we are trying to avoid. Also, when rocks do get in
there, they'll wear a hole within minutes into your neoprene footies - and
that can't easily be patched. So when you get rocks in your sock stop immediately,
remove the boot, rinse in the water to get out all the rocks, and then continue. I
have found the waders with built in gravel guards to be the best because you
will never loose them nor forget them as common as it was with the old Velcro
wrap around styles.
Waders could be
an
article by itself, so I’ll try to keep it short. Best all around waders are any
of the breathable kinds, made by top manufacturers. I happen to love my Simms
Gore-Tex waders with many great features I’ll never go without, including: the
opportunity to custom order the boot foot size, belt loops, hand warmer pockets,
zippered inner pockets and retractors, double layered knees, shins and butt
seats, and easily adjustable shoulder straps. With waders, you really do get
what you pay for, and even the coldest waters can be waded by layering up
underneath. Now, when it’s really cold and snowy out, (steelheading) I prefer
to use a boot foot style neoprene, 4 MM since the 5 MM ones are just too bulky
and the 3mm are not thick enough, furthermore, I’ll always opt for the lug sole
when snow is on the ground in order to avoid the Frankenstein boot syndrome.
Boot foots also allow you to have a warm pocket of air around your foot to
increase circulation, and they sure are easier to put on and off when your hands
are numb for the fact that there are no frozen laces to try to untie. Another
tip; put on your waders at home and drive in them to the river, so your feet
will be toasty and warm when you start. Additionally, when standing in one spot,
always keep wiggling your toes to increase circulating warm blood to your
extremities. I always opt for waders over wet wading unless I am in gin clear
clean water, where I can see any obstacles which might cut me. (Rebar, glass,
concrete rip rap, e coli, fungus and raw sewage are nasty things you do not want
your skin to come into contact with.)
A Wading Belt is a MUST for
aging baby boomers (like me) for two reasons: sore backs and safety. We all know about
wading belts, which keep the top of our waders from ballooning up and becoming a
drift sock should we take a fall. But I find the bigger belts that resemble a
weightlifting belt really allow me to wade for longer times by preventing my
lower back from getting sore and tired. Both Hodgeman and Simms endorse
this style, and I highly recommend them from a comfort standpoint. Be sure to
add a water bottle carrying sack to it, and your shoulders will last longer as
you lighten your shoulder yoke on the vest by 24 ozs. Some friends even lasso
their net to the back of it, which would lighten the load another pound or so.
A Wading
Staff is
something I have come to appreciate more and more as I continue to get older and
less nimble. Now, if you are wading in sand bottom streams, you may never have
a need for a staff, even though I have had the gravel washed out from under me
several times. This has taken many a hat floaters that I might not have had I
had a handy wading staff (hindsight is always 20/20 or better). I have wade
fished in almost 40 states and waded on stuff that was easy, all the way to
maneuvering around huge, car-sized boulders, where in a several hour stint, only
went a 100 yards. Trust me on round bowling/beach ball glaciated boulders, a
staff is like having a third leg, and provides tons of stability. It
is like the blind: allowing you to feel where the next step is going when you
cannot see bottom. I prefer the fold up ones that can be attached to the wading
belt, are easily pulled out, and snap into place for quick use. They are also
attached to the harness in case you drop them; lightness and the ability to lean
into one without it breaking is important. Always cross sideways and use the
staff on the upstream side, additionally, hold your rod in the opposite hand to
allow you better balance. Should you take a fall, you should be facing upstream,
the tendency is to post to the bottom with your upstream hand (which is holding
the staff), so your rod will be safe on the high side and may not even get wet.
Many are wondering why a
Hat is on the list, but I am here to tell you that a good hat will help your
wading in several ways. The first is that it protects the head from errant
flies on windy days. It also helps protect the top of my head from sunburn, (
yeah, I’m a little soft in the hair dept), and lastly, most importantly it helps
shade out the glare, allowing you to see into the water making you able to see
where the next step is going. A ball cap is best, but one with a longer bill
works even better in conjunction with polarized glasses. (see next subject) On
cold, windy days, comfortable ears are very important, so invest in a winter hat
with ear flaps. Let’s not forget about spider webs, yeah, we all have found
those a few times, and a ball cap keeps them off your face. I prefer a natural
earth tone such as a brown or green one, so the fish aren’t spooked when they
see my hunter orange cap moving above the surface.
Polarized
Gasses are yet
another big piece of the puzzle, and this is where you will definitely get what
you pay for. Polarized glasses allow the lens to filter out the glare and
furthermore assists you to see into the bottom of the stream, thus allowing you
to move quicker and more sure footedly. This also comes with the bonus of
allowing you to better see structure, logs and fish; and anytime it’s possible
to see what is under the water better, I want that advantage! The cheapies from
Wal-Mart are better then nothing, and when you decide to get serious about this
business: you will blow anywhere from 100-300 bucks on a quality pair of glass
lens from any of the top makers like Action Optics or Ocean Waves. I personally
have 2 pair of prescription Ocean waves and have never had any problems with
them for the last 15 years. Next topic is the color of the lens: some like
amber, some like grey but all around the amber/yellow will do you the best in
all conditions and allow you more light as darkness falls. Here is a tip: as
darkness falls, I switch back to my regular glasses at dusk, because my
polarized glasses make it darker then it really is. Don’t forget to get a nice
hard case for the glasses, and make sure they are on some sort of attachment
such as Croakies so they can be taken off and held around your neck, because it
is very important to take off your glasses when photos are being taken.
The
Vest is also something
that allows you to be balanced when you are wading. Make sure all zippered fly
pouches are always zippered shut, and that the stomach clip is fastened because
it helps to take pressure off the shoulders while allowing you the most
freedom. I like a vest that is a shorty version, so I can get into deeper
water, but the negative to a shorty vest is that nowadays the fly boxes are
often right where the arms rest, and that can be uncomfortable. Chest packs and
waist packs are also becoming more popular, and allow even better balance. Some
keys to comfort are: to pack as light as possible, always bring toilet paper and
keep the net and water on the belt.
Now, that covers the tools
of the trade, but let's talk about a few other good tips (in no particular
order)...
When walking through woods,
I always walk with my rod in front of me using it as a spider web magnet. In
thirty years, I have never broke a rod and, when I try to walk with it behind me
like the experts advise, I always snag my flies on limbs. I’ll never figure that
one out.
When angling down a steep
bank or walking on a sloped trail, always carry the rod on the downhill side in
case you slip, you will use your free hand to post yourself when you fall, and
won’t smash your rod into the bank.
Always take baby steps when
you are moving up through a pool you plan to fish in. Always lead with your
upstream foot, then bring the other foot up to it so you do not hear the water
splashing.
I often walk fast then go
into “stealthy mode” when I get within, say 100 feet, of where I am going to
fish.
Cross strong deep water with
a buddy and hold hands to steady one another.
Always cross at riffles
where it is shallowest whenever possible (you will notice that is where the deer
always cross).
Always face upstream when
crossing. Rod in downstream hand, staff in upstream hand.
I often wade to my spot, and
then just sit there for a few minutes, perhaps re-rigging or switching flies
before I start casting to rest the pool.
Once in my casting spot, I
set my feet and won’t move them while I cast, because there is nothing worse
than someone who shuffles and waddles slowly upstream while casting. Usually
before they know it, they are casting from where they should be fishing.
Learn to read the water and
as you wade upstream; you should be crossing and zig zagging across the stream
to fish the deep spots from the shallow sides as the stream meanders, so should
you, in opposite fashion.
Use tree roots to get into
and out of the water and these are most often found in rifle areas.
If wading with a weaker
wader, always stay upstream of them to help break the water for them (this
really does help).
When canoe or kayakers
are coming towards you, it is best to back away from the hole and let them pass.
Whenever I try to walk forward so they can go behind me, they inevitably hit me
sideways because often they often have no true boating skills. This is VERY
dangerous and will ruin the hole.
While fishing along eddy’s,
be careful where you stand, as you may muddy the water you are about to fish. If
you do not need to be in the water, stay out of it as it will improve your
effectiveness.
Learn what nasty plants are
in your area. Here in the Midwest: we have Stinging Nettles, poison Ivy and
Poison Oak. Here is a Nettles tip: when you get hit with it, as quickly as
possible, grab mud and smear it in on the affected skin while rubbing it as hard
as possible, then rinse with cold river water. This really will help in making
it itch much less.
Know what snakes are in your
area, if walking trails: rattlesnakes, copperheads and other non-friendly snakes
are often found along streams. Rattlesnakes and Copperheads are usually found
above the high water mark, so staying in the stream bed is good common sense.
A lot of folks ask me what
I think about the Co2 inflatable vests like the SOSuspenders. I think that: if
you are a poor swimmer, not confident about your wading, or are constantly in a
deep, fast water, then I’d say that they are a sound investment. The vests are a
little on the pricey side though, and I prefer smaller water so I honestly have
never tried them.
Some folks prefer hip boots,
but I personally have found them to only help in getting your butt wet when
walking through shallow water. Therefore, I cannot add much here other then I do
not like them.
Always be careful when
walking across flat shale rock that has a slight sediment coating on it. I have
taken some of my worst falls in water less then 3” deep! That sediment coating
is comparable to grease.
To summarize the whole of
this article: be careful, walk slowly, be patient, and not try to hurry to the
next spot.In questionable water, if you do not have a buddy helping you, always
opt for the safe way out, many of my falls/swims were when I pushed the limit
when I knew I should not have. I hope some of these lessons will help you and
your equipment to be safer and more effective while wading. I encourage any
further tips or discussions in email form to
mark@flyfishohio.com.
